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Quilt Block of the Month: October

Have you ever wanted to make a quilt but couldn't find just what you had in mind? The editors of Quilter's World magazine have compiled some block patterns, from the thousands of traditional blocks available, that you can download for free. With a few basic skills and a variety of block patterns, you can create countless designs in no time.

A new block download will be available each month along with helpful hints, tips and tricks. We will also give you ideas for block combinations and possible quilt settings from time to time to help you create fabulous quilted projects. We hope these blocks will inspire you to experiment with quilt design and create your own layouts. So get a binder and some page protectors to fill with block patterns and samples to fuel your creative juices.

Mill Wheel

Finished Block Size
8" x 8"
Mill Wheel

Mill Wheel
8" x 8" Finished Block

Cutting

From Light Fabric:

  • Cut 2 (5 1/4") squares. Subcut on both diagonals to make 8 A triangles.

    Mill Wheel

  • Cut 2 (2 7/8") squares. Subcut on one diagonal to make 4 B triangles.

    Mill Wheel

From Dark Fabric:

  • Cut 1 (5 1/4") square. Subcut on both diagonals to make 4 C triangles.

    Mill Wheel

  • Cut 1 (3 3/8") D square.

    Mill Wheel

Assembly

  1. Stitch a C triangle to an A triangle along the long edge making a half square A-C unit (Figure 1). Press seam toward C. Repeat to make four A-C units.

    Mill Wheel
  2. Stitch A triangles to opposite sides of an A-C unit referring to Figure 2. Press seams toward the A triangles.

    Mill Wheel
  3. Stitch a B triangle to the top of the A-C unit (Figure 3); press seam away from B.

    Mill Wheel
  4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 to make two A-C-B corner units.
  5. Position and stitch A-C units on opposite sides of the D square with A triangles next to D referring to Figure 4. Press seams toward D.

    Mill Wheel
  6. Stitch B triangles to opposite ends of the A-C-D unit (Figure 5); press seams away from B to make the block center row.

    Mill Wheel
  7. Stitch an A-C-B corner unit to opposite sides of the center unit (Figure 6). Press seams in same direction to complete the block.

    Mill Wheel

Helpful Hints

  • Choose one each light and dark fabric for this block. Use scraps from other projects or purchase fat eighths (9" x 22") or fat quarters (18" x 22") to make one sample block.
  • Cut individual pieces from scraps or cut strips and then individual pieces from strips if using yardage or large pieces of fabric. For example, to cut several 2 1/2" squares, cut a 2 1/2"-wide strip the width of the fabric. Subcut the strip into 2 1/2" squares.
  • Use a 1/4"-wide seam allowance for all seams and stitch right sides together.

Preparing the Quilt for Quilting

If you are taking your project to someone else for quilting, be sure to discuss how they want you to prepare your backing, batting and quilt top for them. If you are quilting your project yourself, here are some important tips on quilt preparation.

Layering the Quilt

Layering the quilt top with batting and backing is referred to as making a quilt sandwich. Refer to the Helpful Hints listed with the August and September blocks to determine the correct size for backing and batting for your quilt top.

After preparing and ironing the backing piece, place it right side down on a clean floor or table, depending on quilt size. For larger quilts, tape the edges of the backing to the floor or table with painter's tape, pulling it taut.

Place the batting on top of the backing, centering on the backing and smoothing out wrinkles.

Press the quilt top on both sides; check for proper seam pressing, and trim all loose threads from seams and raw edges.

For larger projects, fold the quilt top in half right sides together lengthwise and center the fold on the batting's lengthwise center. Unfold the quilt top and smooth over the batting.

For smaller projects, simply center the quilt top wrong side down on the batting.

Basting the Quilt

It is necessary to baste the backing, batting and quilt top together to prevent shifting during quilting. Depending on the size of the project, you may want to use a fabric adhesive spray, hand thread-basting or pins.

For small projects, adhesive fabric spray is a convenient way to baste. Be sure to apply the spray to each layer smoothing out wrinkles. If applied incorrectly, the spray may not hold the layers, so be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions.

You could also use an adhesive batting which when heat is applied sticks to both the quilt top and backing. Follow manufacturer's instructions for layering and application of this batting.

For medium to large sized projects, hand thread-baste with contrasting thread or with pins from the quilt center out. You can use straight safety pins, special curved quilting safety pins or long straight pins. Be sure to put a foam "pin moor" on the sharp end of each pin to prevent it from working out of the quilt sandwich.

Thread-basting or pins should be done from the center of the quilt radiating out, and they should be placed no less than 6" apart. Pins should be removed as you quilt the layers. Thread-basting can be removed when the quilting is completed.

Copyright © 2013 Annie's. All rights reserved.

For more detailed help with quilting techniques, view our Quilting Lessons or consult a complete quilting guide. Your local library will probably have several on hand that you can review before purchasing one.

DOWNLOAD
Click here to download the PDF (440.4 KB)

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